%0 Journal Article %1 Li201336 %A Li, M.-S. %A Chen, Y.-Y. %A Hsu, H.-C. %A Torres-Freyermuth, A. %D 2013 %J Ocean Engineering %K 2013 Experiment Lagrangian NonlinearWaterwaves ParticleTrajectory SlopingBottom WaveBreaking from:erick007 %P 36-48 %R 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2013.01.018 %T Experimental and Lagrangian modeling of nonlinear water waves propagation on a sloping bottom %U https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-84875409122&doi=10.1016%2fj.oceaneng.2013.01.018&partnerID=40&md5=856714f3a0813031ecf31d7893209461 %V 64 %X This paper presents an experimental and theoretical investigation of nonlinear water wave propagation over a sloping bed. Firstly, a series of monochromatic wave laboratory experiments were performed in order to measure the particle trajectories, evolution of wave profile, and wave phase velocity as wave propagates on a sloping bottom. The particle trajectories are quantified by means of images from a high speed camera, whereas the evolution of wave profile and variation of wave phase velocity are measured by a wave gauge array. Subsequently, the free-surface elevation, phase velocity, particle trajectories, and breaking wave height are estimated using a Lagrangian nonlinear wave transformation model. Model predictions show a reasonable agreement with experimental data. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.

@article{Li201336, abbrev_source_title = {Ocean Eng.}, abstract = {This paper presents an experimental and theoretical investigation of nonlinear water wave propagation over a sloping bed. Firstly, a series of monochromatic wave laboratory experiments were performed in order to measure the particle trajectories, evolution of wave profile, and wave phase velocity as wave propagates on a sloping bottom. The particle trajectories are quantified by means of images from a high speed camera, whereas the evolution of wave profile and variation of wave phase velocity are measured by a wave gauge array. Subsequently, the free-surface elevation, phase velocity, particle trajectories, and breaking wave height are estimated using a Lagrangian nonlinear wave transformation model. Model predictions show a reasonable agreement with experimental data. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.}, added-at = {2021-06-02T06:08:56.000+0200}, affiliation = {Department of Marine Environment and Engineering, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan; Department of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, National Cheng Kung University, Tainan 70955, Taiwan; Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory, National Cheng Kung University, Tainan 70101, Taiwan; Laboratorio de Ingenieríay Procesos Costeros, Instituto de Ingeniería, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Sisal, Mexico}, author = {Li, M.-S. and Chen, Y.-Y. and Hsu, H.-C. and Torres-Freyermuth, A.}, author_keywords = {Experiment; Lagrangian; Nonlinear water waves; Particle trajectory; Sloping bottom; Wave breaking}, biburl = {https://www.bibsonomy.org/bibtex/286423c84766edcda29d8f65e19591e6e/publ_del_lipc}, correspondence_address1 = {Chen, Y.-Y.; Department of Marine Environment and Engineering, , Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan; email: yichen@mail.nsysu.edu.tw}, document_type = {Article}, doi = {10.1016/j.oceaneng.2013.01.018}, funding_details = {NSC100-2917-I-110-002, NSC99-2221-E-110- 087-MY3, NSC99-2923-E-110-001-MY3}, funding_text 1 = {The work was supported by the Research Grant Council of the National Science Center, Taiwan , through Project nos. NSC99-2923-E-110-001-MY3 , NSC99-2221-E-110- 087-MY3 and NSC100-2917-I-110-002 .}, interhash = {fce47933e3c8b332fdb2ed55bbf02989}, intrahash = {86423c84766edcda29d8f65e19591e6e}, issn = {00298018}, journal = {Ocean Engineering}, keywords = {2013 Experiment Lagrangian NonlinearWaterwaves ParticleTrajectory SlopingBottom WaveBreaking from:erick007}, language = {English}, pages = {36-48}, source = {Scopus}, timestamp = {2021-06-23T06:32:00.000+0200}, title = {Experimental and Lagrangian modeling of nonlinear water waves propagation on a sloping bottom}, url = {https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-84875409122&doi=10.1016%2fj.oceaneng.2013.01.018&partnerID=40&md5=856714f3a0813031ecf31d7893209461}, volume = 64, year = 2013 }